The support of the dry stone walls, in fact, makes the terraces where the vines grow possible. Composed of over 2500 km of stones, the terraces of the Rhaetian slope of the Valley are a genuine cultural heritage site, included on the Register of Historical Rural Landscapes. A landscape that underlines the harmonious integration between original environment and man’s intervention ever since the most ancient times. The origin of wine production in Valtellina is, in fact, attributed to the Ligures and the Etruscans, although we needed to await the Middle Ages (10th-12th century) to see production and the renown of the local wines grow. A renown that has increased over time, to the extent of meriting a citation in Leonardo da Vinci’s Codex Atlanticus: «Voltolina, as it is called, a Valley surrounded by tall, terrible mountains, makes very potent wines». Maroggia, Sassella, Grumello, Inferno and Valgella are the zones with a vocation for the production of wines par excellence, as far as the ward of Baruffini, in the Tirano area, where the last vineyards to the east of the Valley extend to. The vine is usually cultivated between 300 and 900 metres in altitude, but global warming is gradually raising the parameters of the lowest altitudes. Indeed the microclimate of the Valtellina has always given the alpine environment Mediterranean tones, with important benefits for the grapes. After all, it is not uncommon to find prickly pear, agaves and bushes and shrubs typical of the Mediterranean maquis along the terraces. The exposure of the vineyards to the south and the influences of Lake Como contribute to making the climate mild, while the presence of wind in the Valley (the Breva) eliminates the risk of excessive humidity. The predominantly sandy terrain, on the other hand, contributes to the draining of the subsoil. Rosso di Valtellina DOC, Valtellina Superiore DOCG and Sforzato di Valtellina DOCG are wines characterised by a surprising elegance that express the features of the vine and the territory well. It is no coincidence, in fact, that the taste-olfactory sensations are amplified in combination with the dishes of the local tradition: pizzoccheri, sciatt, cheeses such as Valtellina Casera DOP or Bitto DOP. Sforzato, in particular, is the child of that wind that mitigates the climate of the valley. It is made from grapes that are left to dry: their exposure to the wind creates a concentration of aromas and sugars that modifies the scents of red and black cherry into hints of plum and blackberry. In Valtellina Nebbiolo is also known as Chiavennasca. The name derives from the dialect expression ciuvinasca, meaning more winey, to indicate the good quality and vigour of a vine that has found its ideal habitat in these lands. In addition to Nebbiolo, however, other autochthonous grapes are also cultivated, including Brugnola, Rossola, Pignola, Merlina and white grapes with an international character such as Sauvignon Blanc or Chardonnay. Biodiversity is the metric with which every day, with passion and responsibility, the wine growers of Valtellina operate. In addition to a progressive limitation of chemical treatments, there are many expedients adopted, in fact, associated with the tradition. Such as the dry stone walls, which favour the growth of mosses, lichens and the local flora, or grassing over, which leaves the grass free to grow among the rows, enriching the soil with diverse and integrated living organisms. Or such as the grazing animals that naturally manure the ground. Wine production at altitude in the Valtellina is based, therefore, on a delicate ecosystem and on ancient know-how. An experience for all the senses, poetically told by film director Ermanno Olmi in his evocative documentary “Rupi del vino”.
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